(Material List is Per Unit. Unit = 1 Board & 2 Sides of the base)
Board Materials:
1 – 4×8 Peg Board (1-4×8 = 2 Large Boards @ 3 Feet Wide & 1 Small Board @ 2 Feet)
2 – 120” of 1” PVC Pipe
3 – 10 Large Flat Head Screws
4 – Paint (Use Gray for Actual Peg Board & Trim is Black) DON’T FORGET THE PRIMER!
5 – Foam: To cover the hanging jewelry (We purchased ours from Joann’s. Get at least 1inch thick, the height of the foam seems to be around 2 ft. Then just have them cut the width to overhang the board a little. I cut slits along the top of the top piece, and then cut a few slits on the top of the bottom so it can hang).
6 – Cloth: We bought a thick type of material from Wal-Mart. Cut it longer and wider than your actual board.(Suggestion: Get black material if you can, we have a light color and the light shows through with certain locations and takes the focus off the jewelry).
7- Bungees: Make sure and get the “Flat” bungees not the round ones. We bought ours at Wal-Mart and they come in a clear plastic container for like $11. Quantity depends on how many boards. For wider boards I had to connect different colors of the bungees to get the correct size).
Base Materials (All Materials Size is 1 ½“):
1 – 226” ABS 1 ½” Pipe(Which includes Support bar for 3ft Board)
2 – 6 T’s
3 – 2 (Sharp) 90 Degree Piece’s
4 – 4 – 45 Degree Angel Piece’s
5 – 2 Cap’s
6 – 6 Plugs (For 1 ½ pipe)
7 – Sand (I bought mine @ Home Depot, Play Sand by the Concrete Bags)
8 – Black ABS Glue (Large Bottle)
ATTENTION: WEAR GLOVES WHILE APPLYING GLUE. WILL NOT COME OFF YOURS HANDS FOR DAYS.
Assembly Instructions:
1 – Cut all Peg Board and trim to length
(Trim @ 45 Degree Angle & Make sure trim hangs over the Peg Board at least 1/8th”..Should only be visible from behind)
2 –Paint (Prime) all Peg Board and Trim so they can dry while cutting pipe for base.
3 – Now cut all sections of ABS pipe to exact length
2 @ 1 ¾”
2 @ 20 ¼”
2 @ 8 ¼”
2 @ 16 ½”
2 @ 1 ½”
2 @ 3 ¼”
2 @ 24”
(With rag wipe out shards of pipe on cut ends before gluing)
4 – Now Glue Cap on one end of the 8 ¼” piece and the T fitting on the other.
5 – Now take and glue the plug on one end of the 16 ½” piece. With the end with the plug in it, glue it to the 8 ¼” & T piece that you just made (This is forming the Foot of the Base)
6 – Take the piece that you have been assembling and attach another T to the other end of the 16 ½” piece. Now glue and install another plug on that T. Install plug in hole that the support bar will be going in NOT the whole where the rest of the base is going to be assembled. VERY IMPORTANT: Hurry and set it on the ground and use a square to make sure areas are pointing in the right direction’s (Horizontal or vertical where needed)…BEFORE GLUE DRYS!)
7 – Now glue the 1 ½” piece to the 90 Degree angle. After that glue the end with the 1 ½” piece to the T coming from the 16 ½” piece
(MAKE SURE THE 90 DEGREE ELBOW IT POINTING UP USE AQUARE IF NEEDED)
8 – Now fill this first part up with sand (I used a milk carton that I cut as a funnel and then used the soft handle end of the hammer to tap it and get the sand as tight at possible) Do not fill it all the way up otherwise when you glue the next piece sand will get in it and compromise the glue.
9 - Glue the 20 ¼” Piece in the T where the 8 ½” & 16 ½” connect
(SHOULD BE VERTICAL JUST LIKE THE 90 DEGREE ELBOW THAT WAS JUST INSTALLED)
10 – Now glue the 3 ½” piece, 45 degree fitting and 24” piece all together. Once that’s done glue those three pieces that you just assembled and glue the 3 ¼” piece’s end to the 90 degree elbow that we just filled with sand (IMPORTANT: After gluing and pushing them together hurry and align the 24” to be even with the 20 ¼” piece. Note: They will not be touching BUT just make sure they line up).
11 – Now glue the 1 ¾” piece to the other 45 degree fitting and glue the DWV piece to the other T.
12 – Now glue both pieces the 1 ¾” end, 45 degree fitting end, and the bottom of the T that the DWV fitting was installed. And put them on sideways. Now hurry and twist them so the fit together and push them snug.
13 – Cut the center support pieces to length the pieces that go in between the two parts of the base (These are not permanent they are only to support the stands so you can slide the boards in without multiple persons helping)
14 – The base unit is done the last step is to take the white plastic washer looking piece in the DWV piece and use a Dremel tool or whatever you want to ream out all of it until the 1” PVC pipe will be able to slide in easily.
15 – Peg board – Ok take the PVC pipe and cut the correct # of legs needed for however many units your building cut them 5 ft. (60”).
16 – Then mark 12” down on one the ends on each 5 ft. PVC piece
17 – Go behind the peg board holding up the PVC pipe to the 12” mark and screw in threw one of the Peg board holes into the pipe (Install at least 6 – 8 screws down each side). So that the screw holds the board to the pipe (NOTE: Hold the pipe over so there is at least one row of holes running down the outside of the pipe. So you will see one row of the holes then the head of the screws then the rest of the beg board) If questions call, Can send Pics.
18 – Do the same to the other side. Then flip over and put in the bases that we just made. Now install the trim, make sure to use a little staple gun to staple from behind the peg board to the trim…☺
NOTE: While building the bases use your own discretion and when the paint has dried put on another coat (Primer then paint 2 coats) then go back to working on the bases and so on that way you get them done quicker.
If you have any questions call Korey @ 801.792.4923